Tag Archives: yellow onion

Lemony Octopus Salad

December 17, 2015 rusticoblog

Octopus scares most cooks. Not because of its tentacles, or its slipperiness, or its often unwieldy size. It scares most cooks because preparing it successfully (until it’s tender rather than rubbery) seems unlikely.

Why this should be the case is a mystery. Think of octopus as you would a tough cut of meat meant for braising: beef chuck, oxtail, pork shoulder, lamb shanks… You get the idea. All it needs is slow, gentle cooking to render it tender and soft, rather than chewy and tough. Forget all you have read about triple-dunking in boiling liquid, beating against the side of a rock (or the inside of your sink), whacking it with a meat mallet, or adding a cork to the boiling liquid. Just cook the octopus for hours, until a fork easily punctures it, and you’re done.

The recipe below is for poached octopus, which certainly doesn’t sound very sexy, but it is succulent, the ideal starter for a holiday seafood dinner. The first step is making what the French call court bouillon, which means short stock: a flavorful, often wine-spiked cooking liquid in which to poach fish and seafood (or anything else you wish to cook). Making a court bouillon takes minutes of work, and you can add whatever aromatics you want to the pot: below are my favorites, but improvise as you like.

Once the court bouillon is strained, lower the octopus into it and cook it at a happy simmer for 2 or 3 hours, then serve it straight away, as below, or cool it in a bit of its cooking liquid and grill it later (a simple smoked paprika, parsley, and garlic dressing is my favorite post-grilling). You can also press the cooked octopus into a terrine mold (or loaf pan) lined with plastic wrap overnight, refrigerate it under the weight of a few cans, and when you take it out, you can slice it into a most impressive-looking octopus soppressata: the gelatin in the octopus sets the layers so it looks like a gorgeous octopus mosaic.

Keep in mind that octopus shrinks tremendously when it is cooked, so even if it seems like a 3-pound octopus is overkill, it will be about one-third of its original weight after cooking.

Serves 2 as a main course, 4 to 6 as an appetizer

For the court bouillon:

1 yellow onion, chopped
1 celery stalk, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
tops and fronds from 1 bunch fennel
2 garlic cloves
6 black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
1 cup dry white wine
cool water to cover

For the octopus and to serve:

1 large octopus (ideally about 3 pounds)
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
juice of 1 large lemon
1 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon chili flakes
1 garlic clove, grated on a microplane
2 tablespoons minced Italian parsley

Make the court bouillon: Combine all the ingredients except the water in a deep pot (preferably one with a built-in strainer). Add enough water to come as high as you think is safe, considering that you will later be adding the octopus to the pot.

Bring to a boil and simmer 30 minutes. Strain to discard the solids and return to a boil.

Lower the octopus into the simmering liquid. Cover and cook until the octopus is very tender over medium-low heat, about 2 to 3 hours. Don’t rush the process; octopus takes time to become tender. Add more water as needed to keep the octopus submerged throughout the cooking.

Remove the octopus from the liquid and place on a large platter. Cool until you can handle it easily with your hands. Slip off the slimy purple skin (but leave the suction cups attached to the tentacles). Discard the head (I find it tough, although you might want to try it in case you disagree). Cut the tentacles into bite-size chunks.

In a small bowl, combine the olive oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper, chili flakes, garlic, and parsley. Pour over the octopus and toss well; taste the seasoning and adjust as needed. Serve warm or at room temperature. We enjoy octopus with steamed baby potatoes, green beans, and kale sprouts (as pictured below) dressed simply with olive oil, salt, and pepper, but you can serve it atop baby greens, peppery arugula, or a shaved fennel salad.

Appetizer

Spicy Beef-Stuffed Potato Pancakes with Minty Yogurt

August 16, 2015 rusticoblog

Pugliese cooks make delicious “pizze” using boiled potatoes and flour for the crust; similar to gnocchi dough, the potato dough is moist and supple and lends itself beautifully to various toppings, most commonly tomatoes, Mozzarella, and herbs.

A few weeks ago, I found myself with some leftover boiled potatoes and raw beef chuck, so I decided to try the Pugliese potato dough to encase a spicy beef filling. I shaped the mixture into small pancakes, and after a brief bake in a hot oven, the pancakes were golden and lightly crisp on the outside, moist and flavorful on the inside. At first glance, my husband thought the pancakes looked like chocolate chip cookies, so he was quite surprised when they appeared on his plate for lunch!

Don’t be put off by the long ingredient list; the recipe comes together easily and quickly, and the pancakes can be shaped up to 12 hours ahead and refrigerated until ready to pop in the oven.

Serves 2 as a main course, 4 as an appetizer

For the potato dough:

3/4 pound Yukon gold potatoes, scrubbed
3/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus extra for the counter
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon fennel seeds, coarsely ground

For the beef filling:

1/4 pound ground beef chuck (80% lean)
2 garlic cloves, grated on a microplane
1 small yellow onion, grated on the coarse side of a box grater
2 tablespoons minced Italian parsley
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon fennel seeds, coarsely ground
1/2 teaspoon chili flakes

For the yogurt sauce:

1/2 cup plain low-fat Greek yogurt
2 tablespoons chopped mint leaves
1/4 teaspoon salt

To cook:

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Make the potato dough: Place the potatoes in a 4-quart pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and cook until tender, about 30 minutes. Drain, peel, pass through a ricer onto a counter, and cool to room temperature. Add the flour, salt, pepper, and fennel seeds, and gather the ingredients until they come together into a dough. Do not overwork the dough or it will get sticky and require additional flour. Shape into a ball, roll into a log, and cut into 16 pieces. Shape each piece into a ball. Set on a lightly floured counter, cover with plastic wrap, and set aside. (The dough will start to stick it is left on the counter too long, so it is essential that you flour the counter under the balls of dough.)

Make the beef filling: Combine all the ingredients in a bowl. Mash well with your hands to combine; cook a tiny bit of filling to check for seasoning, and adjust as needed. Divide the filling into 16 equal mounds on a plate.

Make the yogurt sauce: Combine all the ingredients in a bowl; refrigerate until needed.

To cook: Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Oil the parchment with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil.

Take one ball of dough and cup it in one hand. Place a mound of beef filling in the middle of the dough. Press down with your free hand and then gather the dough up and over the filling to enclose. Flatten gently between the palms of your hands and place on the oiled parchment paper. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling. Brush the tops of the pancakes with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees (preferably set on convection bake). Bake the pancakes 12 minutes; remove from the oven and flip them over. Return them to the oven and bake another 12 minutes, or until golden on top and just starting to get a bit crisp. Serve hot, with the yogurt sauce.

Soup

Escarole and Egg Soup with Pesto and Crispy Pancetta

February 10, 2015 rusticoblog

Soup: comfort in a bowl. In the winter, we eat soup at least once a day. Most of the time, we crave vegetable soups, full of chunky bits of goodness, with something to thicken the broth up: it can be a crushed potato, beans, or a roux. The soup below, thickened with beaten eggs, is a play on the spinach soup my husband grew up eating at home: his father Attilio cooked down spinach in broth until silky soft, then stirred in plenty of Parmigiano and beaten eggs just before serving. Here we use escarole instead of spinach, top it with crispy Pancetta for texture and meaty depth, add a squeeze of lemon juice to the eggs to lighten the flavor, and stir in pesto at the very end to brighten things up. Serve this soup with bread and salad, and you have a memorable meal fit for a chilly day indoors.

Serves 2
For the pesto:

1/2 cup packed basil leaves (about 1/2 large bunch)
1 garlic clove
1 ounce (1/4 cup) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

For the soup:

1 ounce Pancetta, defatted and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 medium yellow onion, minced
2 garlic cloves, minced
water as needed
1 head escarole (about 1 pound), washed thoroughly and chopped
2 cups chicken broth
1 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon lemon juice

Make the pesto: Place all the ingredients in a food processor and process to a fine paste; there may be some little basil strands here and there, because there is very little oil in this pesto, but that is fine. The purpose of this pesto is to lend flavor to the soup, not to make the soup creamy in texture, so a semi-chunky texture is fine. Remove to a bowl and lay plastic wrap directly on top of the pesto to prevent darkening. This can be done up to 2 hours before serving. Hold at room temperature until needed.

Make the soup: Place the Pancetta in a 2-quart pot. Set over medium heat and cook until the Pancetta is crispy and lightly golden, about 3 minutes; remove with a slotted spoon to a bowl.

Place the olive oil, onion, and garlic in the same pot in which you cooked the Pancetta. Set over medium heat and cover. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring often and adding a bit of water if needed to prevent scorching, until the onion becomes translucent. Add the escarole and cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid. Cook, stirring often, until wilted and collapsed, about 8 minutes. Add the broth, season with 3/4 teaspoon of the salt and 1/8 teaspoon of the pepper, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to medium-low and cook, covered, for 15 minutes, or until the escarole is silky and the soup smells rich and deep. The soup can be made up to this point 2 hours before serving and held at room temperature. Reheat when needed to the boiling point.

When you are ready to serve, beat the eggs with the lemon juice, the remaining 1/4 teaspoon of salt, and the remaining 1/8 teaspoon of pepper. Return the soup to a boil. Pour in the eggs and let sit, undisturbed, until the eggs set, about 1 to 2 minutes. Stir gently once or twice, being careful to leave the eggs in large fluffy clouds, swirl in the pesto, and adjust the seasoning as needed. Serve hot, topped with the crispy Pancetta.

Soup

Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with Roasted Shiitake & Speck

January 12, 2015 rusticoblog

We love Jerusalem artichokes. With a flavor reminiscent of truffles and aged cheese, they lend themselves to all manner of preparations. One of our favorite ways to enjoy their distinct aroma is in soup, and the recipe below, a recent creation, is especially soothing on a chilly day.

Serves 2

For the soup:

1 teaspoon unsalted butter
1/2 medium onion, minced
1/2 pound Jerusalem artichokes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/4 cup frozen artichoke hearts, thawed and chopped
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
3 cups chicken broth
1/4 cup half-and-half

For the shiitake:

1/2 pound fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

To serve:

2 thin slices Speck, cut into fine slivers

Make the soup: Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed 2-quart pot. Add the onion and cook 5 minutes over medium heat, or until soft, stirring often and adding a splash of water if needed to prevent sticking. Stir in the Jerusalem artichokes and artichokes, season with the salt and pepper, cover, and cook 10 minutes, stirring once in a while and adding a splash of water as needed if the vegetables stick.

Stir in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 3 minutes, or until the vegetables are thoroughly coated in flour and the raw flour smell has dissipated. Add the broth, still stirring, and bring to a gentle boil. Cover and cook over medium-low heat for 30 minutes, or until the vegetables are very soft and the soup is thick.

Meanwhile, make the shiitake: Preheat the oven to 325 degrees (preferably set on convection). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and toss the shiitake with the olive oil, salt, and pepper on the parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Roast in the preheated oven 20 minutes, or until lightly browned and somewhat shriveled, stirring once or twice for even browning. Set aside.

Being careful not to burn or splash yourself, puree the soup in a blender in several batches. Return to the pan. Stir in the half-and-half, adjust the seasoning, and serve hot, garnishing each portion with the shiitake and Speck.

Focaccia

Kale & Chorizo Focaccia

October 29, 2014 rusticoblog

Focaccia is a canvas for anything you are inspired to eat. I especially love focaccia topped with greens, finding the lengthy cooking time mellows the vegetables into sweet submission. Last week, we had a bunch of Tuscan kale in the refrigerator and a knob of Spanish chorizo; here is the delectable result. Any type of kale, or other greens such as broccoli raab, spinach, beet greens, or even cabbage will work instead. For a vegetarian version, omit the chorizo and add 1/2 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano when topping the dough.

Makes one 14-inch focaccia (serves 2 as a main course, 4 as an appetizer)

For the dough:

1 and 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus extra for the counter
1/3 teaspoon instant yeast
2/3 teaspoon sea salt, plus 1/8 teaspoon for sprinkling
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons room temperature water, plus extra if needed
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for greasing the bowl

For the topping:

1/2 pound (2 average bunches) Tuscan kale, stems removed, washed and chopped
1 tablespoon plus ½ teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 yellow onion, thinly sliced
¼ teaspoon chili flakes
1 garlic clove, minced
2 ounces Spanish (dried) chorizo, casings removed, cut into 1/8-inch pieces
cool water as needed
1/4 pound fresh Mozzarella, diced (optional)

Make the dough: Place the flour, yeast, and 2/3 teaspoon of the salt in a large bowl. Mix well with a wooden spoon.

Add the water, and stir well. If the dough is too dry to gather around the spoon, add a bit more water by the teaspoon until the dough gathers into a soft mass around the spoon. If the dough is sticky, add a bit of flour by the teaspoon until it forms a cohesive, soft mass.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured counter and knead vigorously for 10 minutes, or until it is very smooth and elastic. Try to add as little flour as possible to the dough as you knead it; the more flour you add, the denser the focaccia will be. It is all right if the dough sticks to your hands a little; knead it faster and it will tend to stick less. The dough is kneaded sufficiently when it is smooth and even in texture all the way through, and when it springs back when poked with a finger; it will also stretch about 6 inches without tearing when pulled apart with two hands.

Lightly oil a large bowl and place the dough in it.

Turn it to coat with the oil and cover with plastic wrap. Let rise at room temperature for 1 hour, or until starting to increase in volume. Refrigerate 12 to 24 hours (a 24-hour rise yields a tastier dough). Return to room temperature when you are ready to shape the dough and bake the focaccia.

One hour before you are ready to bake the focaccia, and after it has returned to room temperature, preheat the oven with a baking stone on the bottom rack to 425 degrees (preferably set on convection bake).

Lightly oil a 14-inch shallow pizza pan. Turn the risen dough out onto the oiled pan and using your fingers, push and flatten gently so it stretches out a bit. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest 15 minutes (if you try to stretch the dough too far at this point, it will simply spring back, as the gluten needs to relax).

Uncover and flatten again so the dough extends and covers the entire base of the pan. Try to stretch it evenly so it does not tear anywhere or have thin patches. Brush with the tablespoon of olive oil and sprinkle with the remaining 1/8 teaspoon of salt. Let rest 15 minutes, uncovered.

Meanwhile, make the topping: Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil. Add the kale and 1 tablespoon of the salt. Boil the kale 5 minutes, or until it is bright green and tender, and drain. Cool under running water, drain again, and squeeze almost (but not completely) dry.

Chop the kale a few times.

In a nonstick 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat, place 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, the onion, chili, and garlic. Cook 5 minutes, or until the onion is soft. Stir in the chorizo and cook 2 more minutes, or until fragrant. Stir in the boiled and chopped kale. Season with the remaining 1/4 teaspoon of the salt and mix well. Cook 10 minutes, adding a bit of cool water if the kale is sticking to the skillet. Taste for salt and adjust as needed. Cool to room temperature.

Top the dough with the cooled kale mixture. Spread it out evenly. Cover with plastic wrap. Let rest for 15 minutes (this allows the gluten to relax). Remove the plastic wrap.

Bake on the baking stone in the preheated oven for 15 to 20 minutes, or until golden brown all over and crispy around the edges, spraying the oven floor with ¼ cup of water 3 times during the first 10 minutes of baking. Brush with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil and cut into wedges. Serve hot, topped with the Mozzarella if desired.

Rustico Cooking