Tag Archives: sage

Pasta

Romanesco Cauliflower & Bacon Reginette

The first time I saw Romanesco cauliflower, I was not in Rome. I was at a farmer’s market in New York City, and the subtle green vegetable made me stop in my tracks: it looked like an alien from a science fiction film, or something out of an Arcimboldo painting. It had a striking shape, with conical florets spiraling towards a pointed top.

When I asked the vendor about it, she said it was Roman broccoli (another name for it).  Needless to say, that day I bought and cooked my first Romanesco cauliflower;  and every time I have spotted any at the farmers’ markets, I never passed up a chance to pick one up. The flavor of Romanesco is a bit nuttier, sweeter, and more subtle than that of regular cauliflower, so I tend to like it best in simple preparations that don’t mask its nuanced flavor or its unusual shape.

The recipe below can certainly be made with regular cauliflower if Romanesco is not available.

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Serves 2 as a main course, 3 to 4 as an appetizer depending on what else you are serving following the pasta

  • 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 large shallot, minced
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 12 sage leaves, thinly sliced
  • 2 thick slices bacon, fat removed, minced
  • 1/2 pound Romanesco cauliflower florets, trimmed and cut as needed (they should be about 2 inches long at most)
  • 2 tablespoons plus 1/2 teaspoon sea salt
  • water as needed
  • 1/2 pound reginette or other long, fresh pasta
  • 2 ounces freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

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Make the sauce: Place 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, the shallot, garlic, sage, and bacon  in a skillet large enough to accommodate the pasta later. Set the skillet over medium heat. Cook 5 minutes, stirring often, or until the shallots are fragrant and the bacon has lost its raw smell.

Add the cauliflower florets, season with 1/2 teaspoon of  the salt, and cook, stirring often, until the cauliflower is limp and lightly browned in spots, about 10 minutes, adding a bit of water by the 1/4 cup as needed to prevent the cauliflower from burning or drying out.

Meanwhile, bring 3 quarts of water to a boil. When the sauce is ready, add the pasta and the remaining 2 tablespoons of salt to the boiling water, and cook until al dente, about 1 minute. Drain, reserving 1 and 1/2 cups of the pasta cooking water.

Transfer the pasta to the skillet and saute over high heat to combine the flavors.  Stir in 1/2 cup of the reserved pasta cooking water,  the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil, the Parmigiano, and the pepper. Adjust the salt if necessary, and add a little more of the reserved cooking water if the pasta seems too dry. Serve hot.

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Appetizer

Fontina & Sage Stuffed Zucchini Blossoms

Zucchini blossoms seem to me the embodiment of summer. Their time is short, their flavor delicate, their essence as ephemeral as summer itself. And while I love deep fried zucchini blossoms (I dredge them in a batter of sparkling cold water and flour, barely beaten so there are still a few lumps left), baked zucchini blossoms are an everyday indulgence I feel far more virtuous bringing to the table. When it comes to zucchini blossoms, less is more: less stuffing, less salt, less cooking allows their gentle flavor to shine through. So even though it may seem like the cheese stuffing is skimpy, it’s not; it’s just enough to give a luscious melting quality without overwhelming the floral flavor of the blossoms.

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Serves 2

  • 16 zucchini blossoms
  • 1 ounce Fontina from Val d’Aosta, rind removed, cut into 16 very thin slices
  • 16 small sage leaves, stems removed
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • sea salt
  • freshly ground black pepper

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Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Trim each zucchini blossom carefully by first removing the small dark green leaves at the base of each blossom and then trim away the long stem so there is only about 1/4-inch left. With a paring knife, make a small vertical incision at the base of the each blossom and with your fingers pull out the stamen or pistil. It tastes bitter so it must be removed.

Gently rinse the blossoms under running water (there are often little insects lurking inside) and place on a layer of paper towels to dry off. The blossoms need to be dry before they are baked or they will steam rather than turn golden and crisp at the edges.

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Stuff each blossom with a slice of Fontina and a sage leaf.

Oil the parchment paper lining the tray and place the stuffed zucchini blossoms on it, with the opening facing up. Using a pastry brush, brush with olive oil. Season very lightly with salt and pepper.

Bake in the preheated oven for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the Fontina melts and the blossoms are golden. Serve hot.

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Soup

Roasted & Spiced Butternut Squash Soup

Spring is almost here—and while I am thrilled about the weather warming up, the longer days, and the return of birds and squirrels and chipmunks, I’m not quite ready to stop enjoying hearty, comforting winter fare quite yet. So today I made this soothing soup with roasted butternut squash, a hint of ginger and nutmeg, and a swirl of sour cream. The flavors are rich and deep, but the soup itself very low in fat and calories, and quite filling.

Be careful with the amount of ginger you use, as it really lends the soup an unmistakable spicy note; too much will take the soup from soothing to jarring!!


Serves 2

For the squash:

  • ½ pound peeled butternut squash, cut into ½-inch cubes
  • 1 large shallot, chopped
  • 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • 3/4 cup water, plus extra as needed
  • 1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
  • ½ teaspoon minced ginger
  • 2 sage leaves, chopped
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

To serve:

  • 2 cups chicken broth
  • ½ cup 2% milk, plus extra as needed
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 tablespoons sour cream

Make the squash: Preheat the oven to 350° (preferably set on convection bake). Toss all the ingredients for the squash on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Roast in the preheated oven until the squash is tender, about 30 minutes, stirring once in a while. Add a bit of water if the squash is drying out or browning too much before becoming tender.

When the squash is tender, puree the squash, shallot, and ginger (along with any liquid on the baking sheet) until very smooth using a blender or food processor. Slowly pour in the broth and milk. Season with the salt and pepper and puree again.

Transfer to a pot and heat over a medium flame until the soup thickens to the consistency you like and the flavors are blended, about 5 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed.

To serve: Ladle the soup into 2 bowls. Garnish each with dollops of sour cream and drag a toothpick through each sour cream dollop to swirl a pretty pattern through it. Serve immediately.

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Main Course: Meat

Truffled Mushroom Chicken Bundles

A handful of ingredients merge to create an amazingly elegant and delicious main course with little effort. If possible, buy organic chicken for this dish; there are so few ingredients that each ingredient really should be of impeccable quality.

If you have trouble finding truffled Gouda or other truffled cheeses at your market, simply use Fontina from d’Aosta, Raclette, or  Gruyere instead, and if you have some on hand, drizzle with truffle oil just before serving. and depending on how salty your cheese is, you may want to use more or less salt to season the chicken and mushrooms.

Serve with canederli and a green salad tossed with lemon juice and olive oil for a splendid supper.

Serves 2

  • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for brushing the baking dish
  • 1 pound shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, caps rinsed, dried, and thinly sliced
  • 4 boneless, skinless chicken thighs
  • ¾  teaspoon salt
  • ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • ¼ pound truffled cheese (such as truffled Gouda, or Tartufello), thinly sliced
  • 12 sage leaves, minced, plus 4 whole for serving

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Preheat the oven to 325° (preferably set on convection).

Lightly oil a 9-inch pyrex or other baking dish. Scatter the shiitake in the baking dish.

Lay the chicken thighs in the dish, with the smooth side facing down. Season with ¼ teaspoon of the salt and 1/8 teaspoon of the pepper. Divide the truffled cheese evenly among the thighs and sprinkle with half of the minced sage. Roll into neat bundles and spread out in the dish so they are not touching, seam-side down.

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Season the shiitake and the top of the chicken bundles with the remaining ½ teaspoon of salt and 1/8 teaspoon of the pepper. Drizzle with the olive oil. Scatter the remaining sage all over the shiitake and chicken bundles.

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Cover with aluminum foil and bake in the preheated oven for 45 minutes, then uncover and bake another 10 minutes, or until golden brown on top. Serve hot, garnished with the whole sage leaves.

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Fresh Pasta

Garnet Yam Gnocchi in Sage Butter Sauce

Gnocchi were my favorite pasta when  I was little.  I was especially fond of potato gnocchi in Gorgonzola sauce, which my mom made to perfection. Lately I’ve been making a lot of sweet potato and garnet yam gnocchi; maybe because in winter, I crave something a bit sweet, and using yams or sweet potatoes gives me an excuse to add a touch of freshly grated nutmeg to the dough. 

Whatever type of tuber you use (Yukon Gold or russet potatoes, garnet yams, regular yams, sweet potatoes), be sure to weigh the flesh after baking, before adding the specified amount of flour; that way, your gnocchi will emerge light and delicate, never heavy. And remember: gnocchi dough should never be kneaded, just mixed and gathered gently with your hands, or else you’ll end up adding more flour than necessary and your gnocchi will be heavy.

To learn how to make gnocchi in a hands-on cooking class with me, and to really understand what the correct texture is for handmade gnocchi, check out our cooking class calendar: we feature handmade gnocchi of every variety (even Ricotta) about once a week or so!

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Serves 4

For the gnocchi:

  • 3 medium garnet yams (about ¾ pound each), scrubbed
  • ¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 cup (4 ounces or 130 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus extra for the tray and counter

For the sauce:

  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 12 sage leaves, thinly sliced
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

To cook and serve:

  • 2 tablespoons salt
  • ½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano

Make the gnocchi: Preheat the oven to 350°F (preferably set on convection).

Place the yams on an aluminum foil-lined baking sheet, poke each with a fork once or twice to prevent bursting, and roast until tender when pierced with a knife, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Cool to room temperature. Cut in half and scoop out the flesh. Place the flesh  in a  bowl. Weigh out exactly 1 pound and reserve the rest for another use.

Using a ricer, puree the yam flesh directly onto the counter.

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Stir in the nutmeg, salt, and pepper.

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Add the flour and mix with your hands until a dough forms.

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dough

The mixture should form a soft, cohesive mass; add a little more flour if the dough is very sticky. Stop mixing once you see no more white streaks in the dough.

Cut into 8 pieces. Dust each piece with flour. With lightly floured hands, gently roll each piece into a 1-inch-thick log. The dough will be soft, but resist the temptation to add more flour unless the dough is really sticky; also be sure not to knead the dough, or else it will require additional flour.

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Cut into 1-inch pieces, toss gently with flour, and spread out in a single layer on a floured tray. (The gnocchi can be made up to this point 12 hours ahead, spread out in a single layer on a floured tray, and refrigerated, uncovered, until ready to cook.) Be sure the gnocchi are not touching each other because the dough is soft and rather sticky.

If you’re nervous that the gnocchi are too soft, try boiling just one or two at this point; that way, if they seem too soft once cooked, or fall apart in the water, you can adjust by adding a touch of flour to firm them up.

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Make the sauce: Melt the butter with the sage, salt, and pepper in an 8-inch skillet over medium-low heat until aromatic. Keep warm.

To cook: Bring 6 quarts of water to a very gentle boil. Add the gnocchi and the salt, and cook until the gnocchi float to the surface,a bout 1 minute. Remove with a slotted spoon to a wide, shallow platter, reserving 1 cup of the gnocchi cooking water.

Add 1/2 cup of the gnocchi cooking water to the sauce in the skillet and swirl once or twice to combine.  Pour over the gnocchi in the platter and mix gently with a rubber spatula.  Sprinkle with the  Parmigiano, and stir gently to incorporate. Taste for seasoning and adjust if necessary. If needed, thin the sauce out with a bit of the gnocchi cooking water. Serve hot.