Monthly Archives: January 2015

Fresh Pasta

Reginette with Burst Cherry Tomatoes & Herbs

Winter lingers too long for my taste here in the northeast. Granted, it was even worse when we lived in Montreal, starting in December and dragging through April… But sometime around late January, I start craving the flavors of summer, the simplicity of summer cooking, the bright colors of the summer table. So I cheat a little and cook something that feels summery even though I’m using anything but seasonal ingredients. Here is an easy and superbly flavored pasta that owes its summery flavor to cherry tomatoes that are cooked to bursting in a searing hot pan, creating a soulful, deeply flavorful sauce in no time at all.

You can make this dish with half a pound of store-bought pasta instead (something thick and sturdy like penne rigate or mezzi rigatoni is ideal). But if you have the time to make the pasta from scratch, the result will be even more memorable. And if you need a little practice before making fresh pasta, join us at one of our hands-on cooking classes in NYC. Reginette are frilly pappardelle, named after the collars worn by queens (regine). Pappardelle or tagliatelle are a good substitute if you do not have a reginette attachment for your pasta machine.

Serves 2 as a main course, 4 as an appetizer

For the reginette:

  • 3 and 1/2 ounces (3/4 cup) semolina flour, plus extra as needed
  • 3 and 1/2 ounces (3/4 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 2 large eggs

For the sauce:

  • 2 pints grape tomatoes, washed and left whole
  • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon chili flakes
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 2 rosemary sprigs, leaves only, minced
  • 2 thyme sprigs, leaves only

To cook and serve:

  • 2 tablespoons sea salt
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 ounces (1/2 cup) freshly grated Pecorino Romano (optional)

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Make the reginette: Place the flours on a counter and add the salt; combine with a fork. Make a well in the center and add the eggs to the well. Incorporate the eggs into the flour, forming a firm dough. Knead 5 minutes, or until smooth, adding a little water if the dough is dry or a little semolina flour if it is sticky, shape into a ball, wrap and let rest 30 minutes. This relaxes the gluten and makes rolling easier later.

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Cut the dough into 2 pieces. Working with 1 piece at a time and keeping the other covered, roll out each piece into a nearly transparent sheet using a pasta machine. Cut with a reginette attachment or cut into 1/2-inch-wide strips with a sharp knife. Toss with semolina flour to prevent sticking.

Spread out in a single layer on a semolina-dusted tray and toss every few minutes to prevent sticking. (The pasta can also be dried at this point and stored in airtight containers for weeks, but it tastes much better when fresh and supple.)

Make the sauce: Heat a heavy pan large enough to accommodate the pasta later over medium-high heat for 2 minutes (if using nonstick, do not allow the pan to get so hot that it smokes). Toss in the cherry tomatoes and cook 5 minutes, shaking the pan once in a while. When the tomatoes start to blacken in spots and burst, add the the olive oil, salt, chili, garlic, rosemary, and thyme. Sauté 5 minutes, or until the tomatoes fully burst and start to form a chunky sauce. If the sauce dries out too much, add a splash of water to the pan; there should always be about 1/2 cup of liquid in the pan. Remove from the heat. (The sauce can be made up to 2 days in advance and refrigerated; warm gently before proceeding and adjust the seasoning.)

To serve: Bring 3 quarts of water to a boil. Add the salt and the reginette. Cook until al dente, about 1 minute for fresh pasta (much longer for dried); drain, reserving 1 cup of the pasta cooking water.

Toss the reginette into the sauce in the skillet and sauté over high heat for 1 minute, diluting with some of the reserved pasta cooking water as needed; the sauce should be fluid and coat the pasta nicely. Stir in the olive oil and adjust the seasoning if needed. Serve hot, passing Pecorino if desired at the table.

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Main Course: Meat

Roasted Poblanos Stuffed with Ricotta & Chorizo

When a recipe calls for less than a handful of ingredients, requires about 10 minutes of work, and delivers amazing satisfaction, it becomes a favorite in our kitchen. That’s exactly the case for these stuffed peppers.

Most stuffed peppers feature heavy meat or rice stuffings, and are often bathed in tomato sauce. I’ve never much loved these, and neither does my husband. The inspiration for this dish came to me during Hurricane Sandy, when we had to finish off whatever was left in the refrigerator quickly. You can hold them in a roasting pan for 12 hours or so before roasting; they are an ideal make-ahead dish for entertaining, and depending on the rest of your menu, they can either serve as the main course or side dish. I’ve served the peppers reheated the next day too, and they are almost as good.

When selecting chorizo, look for the cured Spanish variety; we buy Palacios chorizo, which is all natural and imported from Spain. The fresh Mexican chorizo is too vinegary and crumbly for this dish.

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Serves 2 as a main course, 4 as a side dish

  • 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for oiling the roasting pan
  • 1 pound fresh whole-milk Ricotta
  • 1/4 pound Spanish chorizo, casing removed, cut into 1/4-inch dice
  • 1/4 teaspoon sea salt
  • 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 4 poblano peppers, halved, stemmed, and seeded

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees (preferably set on convection bake). Lightly oil a roasting pan large enough to accommodate all the peppers.

In a medium bowl, combine the Ricotta, chorizo, salt, and pepper. Mix well. Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed.

Arrange the pepper halves in the oiled roasting pan.

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Scoop the Ricotta mixture into the pepper halves and spread evenly to fill. Drizzle the top with the olive oil and roast in the preheated oven for 35 to 40 minutes, or until golden on top. If the cheese filling browns too much before the peppers are soft, cover with aluminum foil, then uncover during the last few minutes of roasting to evaporate excess moisture. Serve hot or warm.

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Soup

Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with Roasted Shiitake & Speck

We love Jerusalem artichokes. With a flavor reminiscent of truffles and aged cheese, they lend themselves to all manner of preparations. One of our favorite ways to enjoy their distinct aroma is in soup, and the recipe below, a recent creation, is especially soothing on a chilly day.

Serves 2

For the soup:

  • 1 teaspoon unsalted butter
  • 1/2 medium onion, minced
  • 1/2 pound Jerusalem artichokes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
  • 1/4 cup frozen artichoke hearts, thawed and chopped
  • 1/2 teaspoon sea salt
  • 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 3 cups chicken broth
  • 1/4 cup half-and-half

For the shiitake:

  • 1/2 pound fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, thinly sliced
  • 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1/4 teaspoon sea salt
  • 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

To serve:

  • 2 thin slices Speck, cut into fine slivers

Make the soup: Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed 2-quart pot. Add the onion and cook 5 minutes over medium heat, or until soft, stirring often and adding a splash of water if needed to prevent sticking. Stir in the Jerusalem artichokes and artichokes, season with the salt and pepper, cover, and cook 10 minutes, stirring once in a while and adding a splash of water as needed if the vegetables stick.

Stir in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 3 minutes, or until the vegetables are thoroughly coated in flour and the raw flour smell has dissipated. Add the broth, still stirring, and bring to a gentle boil. Cover and cook over medium-low heat for 30 minutes, or until the vegetables are very soft and the soup is thick.

Meanwhile, make the shiitake: Preheat the oven to 325 degrees (preferably set on convection). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and toss the shiitake with the olive oil, salt, and pepper on the parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Roast in the preheated oven 20 minutes, or until lightly browned and somewhat shriveled, stirring once or twice for even browning. Set aside.

Being careful not to burn or splash yourself, puree the soup in a blender in several batches. Return to the pan. Stir in the half-and-half, adjust the seasoning, and serve hot, garnishing each portion with the shiitake and Speck.

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