Fish & Seafood

Salmone Al Forno con Salsa al Lime

Perfect Baked Salmon with Lime-Cilantro Sauce

I hate dry salmon. And more often than not, baked salmon is just that: dry, flaky, and uninteresting. And while salmon (like other fish that tend to dry out in the oven) can be baked in parchment paper or foil to ensure it emerges moist rather than dry, I thought there had to be a foolproof way to bake salmon other than wrapped in parchment paper or foil... and so after a few tries, I hit upon a technique that delivers consistently moist, succulent results.

I decided that slow, gentle heat would fare better with salmon than high heat; 250 degrees seemed to do the trick. I selected a few seasonings that pair well with salmon, turned on the oven, and enjoyed the best baked salmon ever.

If you have the time, roast a bunch of asparagus to serve with the salmon.

For the salmon:

• 2 center-cut Wild Alaskan King Salmon (6 ounces each), skin on
• 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 teaspoon coarse sea salt

For the sauce:

• 1/2 cup low-fat plain Greek yogurt (such as Total 2%)
• juice of 1/2 lime
• 1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed
• 1/4 cup cilantro, stems removed
• 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt

Make the salmon: Preheat the oven to 250 degrees.

Rinse the salmon and blot it dry.

Brush an 8-inch square baking dish (preferably glass) with the olive oil. Scatter 1/2 teaspoon of the coarse sea salt over the bottom of the baking dish.

Place the salmon, skin side down, in the baking dish over the salt. Season the salmon with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt.

Bake the salmon 30 minutes, or until cooked all the way through; it will no longer be translucent.

Meanwhile, make the sauce: Place all the ingredients in a blender and puree until smooth. Adjust the seasoning and refrigerate until needed.

To serve: Pool the sauce on 2 plates. Top with the salmon and enjoy. Serves 2

Gamberi con Cavolo, Cipollina e Pancetta

Shrimp with Cabbage, Scallions, and Bacon

Easy enough to make when time is short, this main course offers beautifully contrasting flavors: sweet shrimp, smoky cabbage, fragrant scallions, and a haunting note of chili and garlic.

• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/4 pound double-smoked bacon, defatted and cut into 1/8-inch-thick strips
• 2 cups shredded green cabbage
• 12 scallions, halved lengthwise and cut into 2-inch-long pieces
• 32 large shrimp, shelled and deveined
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 jalapeno pepper, thinly sliced
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 12 basil leaves

Heat the olive oil in a deep, wide skillet over a high flame. Add the bacon and saute 3 minutes, or until lightly browned all over.

Add the cabbage and cook another 5 minutes, stirring once in a while (do not stir too often or the cabbage won't have a chance to stick and brown in spots; this caramelization is key to good flavor).

Stir in the scallions and shrimp, and saute another minute, or just until the scallions soften and the shrimp turns mostly pink. Add the garlic and jalapeno, season with the salt and pepper, and saute 1 more minute, or until the shrimp are fully cooked; there should be no grey spots left, and the shrimp should be fully opaque rather than translucent.

Stir in the basil, adjust the seasoning, and serve hot. Serves 4

Frittelle di Gamberi con Insalatina di Finocchio

Shrimp Fritters over Spicy Fennel Slaw

You can make your own lasagna sheets for the fritters, or you can use store-bough wonton wrappers to save time. The wonton wrappers may not be Italian, but they work very well--they puff and become deliciously crispy after a quick bath in hot olive oil. For a step-by-step recipe for homemade lasagna sheets, click here; you will need one-quarter of the lasagna recipe.

For the fritters:

• 12 large shrimp, shelled and deveined
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• 12 basil leaves
• 12 wonton wrappers

For the fennel slaw:

• 1 fennel bulb, trimmed, quartered, cored, and very thinly sliced
• ½ red pepper, very thinly sliced
• Juice of 1 lime
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• 1/8 teaspoon chili flakes
• 2 tablespoons snipped chives

To fry and serve:

• 2 cups extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/8 teaspoon salt
• ½ teaspoon hot Hungarian paprika

Make the fritters: Place a wonton wrapper on the palm of your hand. Moisten the inner edges with a bit of water. Top with a basil leaf and a shrimp and wrap to enclose. Refrigerate on a tray in a single layer for up to 1 hour. (If using homemade lasagna sheets, do not boil the lasagna first; cut into 3-ibch squares and proceed as above.)

Make the fennel slaw: Toss all the ingredients together in a bowl; set aside up to 30 minutes at room temperature.

When you are ready to serve, heat the olive oil in a deep and narrow pan over a medium-high flame until it registers 325 degrees on a deep-frying thermometer. Deep-fry the shrimp wontons in 3 batches, turning as needed; the dough should be crisp and the shrimp firm and pink and cooked all the way through, about 2 minutes per batch. Using a slotted spoon, remove to a tray lined with paper towels and blot dry.

Mound the fennel slaw on 4 plates. Top with 3 shrimp wontons each and dust with the salt and paprika. Serve hot. Serves 4

Insalata di Baccala con Peperoni Arrostiti

Salt Cod Salad with Smoky Peppers and Green Olives

Be sure to allow at least 24 hours for soaking the salt cod before cooking. You will find salt cod (baccala') at fish markets catering to a Mediterranean clientele.

• 1 pound salt cod
• 2 red peppers, halved and seeded
• 2 green peppers, halved and seeded
• 24 cracked green olives, pitted and halved
• ½ medium purple onion, thinly sliced
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 12 basil leaves, thinly sliced
• 1 tablespoon minced Italian parsley
• 1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and minced
• 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1/8 teaspoon smoked Spanish paprika
• 2 eggs, hard-boiled, shelled, and minced (optional)

Soak the salt cod in cool water to cover for 24 to 48 hours, changing the water every 8 hours. (The salt cod does not need to be refrigerated.) Drain; discard any bones and trim away any skin from the salt cod.

Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil. Add the salt cod and cook 2 minutes, then drain and cool to room temperature. Blot dry and flake into large chunks with your hands. Place on a serving platter.

Meanwhile, preheat the broiler. Line a roasting pan with aluminum foil. Arrange the peppers, cut sides down, on the foil-lined pan. Broil for 15 minutes, or until blistered and black all over. Remove and wrap in the foil until the peppers reach room temperature; they will steam inside the foil and the skins will be very easy to peel away.

Unwrap the peppers and peel the skin away. Cut the roasted pepper flesh into long, thin strips.

Toss the salt cod with the roasted pepper strips, the onion, garlic, basil, parsley, jalapeno, vinegar, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Sprinkle with the smoked paprika and garnish with the minded hard-boiled egg. Serve at room temperature within 2 hours, or refrigerate and serve within 2 days. Serves 4

Focaccine alla Griglia con Salmone Affumicato e Cetriolo

Smoked Salmon and Cucumber Coins over Grilled Focaccia

You can make your own grilled focaccia for this delectable brunch dish, or you can use store-bought focaccia or crostini if time is short. For a step-by-step recipe for grilled focaccia, click here.

• 2 large eggs
• 1 recipe Grilled Sesame & Thyme Focaccia
• 1 pound smoked salmon, thinly sliced
• 1/2 English cucumber, thinly sliced
• 1/2 small purple onion, very thinly sliced
• 2 tablespoons salted capers, rinsed and blotted dry

Place the eggs in a small pot and cover with cool water; the eggs should be submerged in the water. Bring the water to a boil over a medium flame. Cover the pot and remove from the heat. Let stand, untouched, for 13 minutes. Drain the eggs and cool under running water, then shell and slice thinly with an egg slicer.

Cut the focaccia into serving pieces. Top with the smoked salmon, cucumber, onion, and capers. Granish with the hard-boiled eggs and serve. Serves 4 to 8

Calamari Farciti con Sughetto di Pomodoro

Stuffed Squid in Light Tomato Sauce

For the most tender texture, look for the smallest squid possible. Cuttlefish can be cooked the same way, but they are generally chewier than squid.

For the tomato sauce:

• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 shallot, halved and thinly sliced
• 12 basil leaves
• 12 ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced
• ½ teaspoon sea salt
• 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the squid:

• 1 cup fresh bread crumbs
• 1 large egg, beaten to blend
• ¼ cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano
• 2 tablespoons milk
• 2 small garlic cloves, finely minced
• 1 cup Italian parsley leaves, minced
• ¼ cup capers in brine, drained and chopped
• ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 pound small, cleaned squid bodies

Make the tomato sauce: Heat the olive oil in 1-quart saucepan over a medium flame. Add the shallot and basil and cook until the shallot softens, about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes, ½ cup of water, the salt and pepper, and cover; bring to a gentle boil, then lower the heat to medium-low, Cook 30 minutes, stirring often, reducing the heat as needed to prevent scorching.

Meanwhile, make the squid: In a bowl, combine the bread crumbs, egg, Pecorino, milk, garlic, parsley, capers, and pepper.

Using a tiny spoon, stuff the bread crumb mixture into the squid. Don't overstuff the squid or they may burst as they braise. There may be leftover stuffing. Close the opening of each squid with a toothpick, spearing it diagonally.

Gently lower the stuffed squid into the simmering tomato sauce. Cover the pot and cook the squid until it is tender, about 45 minutes.

Serve the squid hot, on a pool of tomato sauce. Serves 4 as a main course, 8 as an appetizer

Fritto Misto

Mixed Fried Fish and Seafood

Literally translated, fritto misto means "mixed fry." In the coastal areas of Italy, the "mix" includes tiny fish with the heads and tails still on, squid cut into rings, scampi, and more. The fish and shellfish are typically rinsed, blotted dry, dipped into flour, and fried in hot extra-virgin olive oil, to be served with lemon wedges and sprinkled with salt right at the table. You can add slices of zucchini, eggplant, or artichokes to the mix--just be sure to fry these before the fish, or they will taste decidedly fishy.

• 2 quarts extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 pound mixed fish and shellfish (red mullet; fresh anchovies; large shrimp; scampi; cleaned squid bodies cut into rings; baby octopus; etc…), rinsed and blotted dry
• 4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
• Sea salt for the table
• 2 lemons, cut into wedges

Heat the olive oil in a deep pan. When it registers 375°, dredge the fish and shellfish in the flour and shake off the excess. Deep-fry the fish and shellfish in several batches, turning once or twice, until golden all over and crisp. Try to fry similar fish and shellfish together to facilitate even cooking, as some fish and shellfish will take longer to cook through depending on their size and texture.

Remove the fish and shellfish with a slotted spoon to a platter lined with paper towels and blot dry. Season with the salt and serve immediately, passing the lemon wedges at the table. Serves 4

Tonno alla Griglia con Rucola

Grilled Tuna with Arugula

In the recipe below, tuna is rubbed with thyme and fennel seeds, then grilled and served atop a refreshing arugula salad.

For the tuna:

• 1 garlic clove, slivered
• 2 thyme sprigs, leaves only, minced
• 1 teaspoon fennel seeds, crushed in a mortar
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon cracked black pepper
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• One 2-pound tuna steak

For the salad:

• Two bunches arugula, stems removed, washed and thinly sliced
• 1 small purple onion, sliced paper-thin
• 16 celery leaves, minced
• 12 cherry tomatoes, halved
• 16 black olives, pitted and halved
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

To serve:

• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 lemon, cut into wedges

Make the tuna: Combine the garlic, thyme, fennel seeds, salt, pepper, and olive oil in a shallow container or plate. Rub the tuna steak in the thyme mixture, coating both sides well. (This can be done up to 2 hours ahead; refrigerate the tuna until needed.)

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, toss the arugula, onion, celery leaves, cherry tomatoes, olives, lemon juice, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Arrange on a serving platter.

When you are ready to serve: Heat a 14-inch grill pan over a high flame for 5 minutes. For rare tuna, grill the tuna 3 minutes per side, turning once; for medium or well-done tuna, grill longer (Italians prefer their tuna well-done). Remove the tuna to a cutting board, cut on the diagonal into thin slices, and arrange it on the serving platter atop the salad.

Serve immediately, drizzled with the olive oil and decorated with the lemon wedges. Serves 6

Salmone Aromatico

Spice-Rubbed Salmon

A combination of dried herbs and spices gives the salmon a distinctive Mediterranean taste. If you don’t like cilantro, use Italian parsley instead.

• 1 tablespoon paprika
• 1 tablespoon fennel seeds
• 1 teaspoon coriander seeds
• ½ teaspoon cumin seeds
• ½ teaspoon caraway seeds
• 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
• 1 teaspoon salt
• grated zest of 1 lime
• 4 salmon steaks (6 ounces each)
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed
• 1 lime, cut into wedges

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.

In a mortar or spice grinder, combine the paprika, fennel, coriander, cumin, caraway, peppercorns, salt, and lime zest. Crush or process until coarse. Pour onto a plate and rub the salmon in the mixture, coating all over and pressing on all sides so the mixture adheres.

Heat the olive oil in a 14-inch sauté pan over a medium-high flame. Add the peeled garlic and cook 30 seconds. Discard the garlic. Add the salmon and cook until it is browned on both sides, about 2 minutes, turning once. Place in a roasting pan and roast in the preheated oven until it is firm to the touch and no longer translucent, about 10 minutes total. (Thicker pieces will take longer to cook through than thinner ones.) Serve hot, with the lime wedges. Serves 4

Pesce Spada Affumicato con Rucola

Smoked Swordfish Topped with Arugula

If smoked swordfish is unavailable, try smoked tuna instead.

• 1/2 pound very thinly sliced smoked swordfish
• juice of 1 lemon
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 bunch arugula, washed and dried, stems removed, cut into long, thin strips

Arrange the smoked swordfish in a single layer on each of 4 plates.

Drizzle with the lemon juice and olive oil, sprinkle with the pepper, and top with the arugula. Serve immediately. Serves 4