Maiale Arrosto in Salamoia

Brined and Spice-Rubbed Pork Tenderloin

I rarely marinate meat with salt. Salt draws out moisture from food, and if added to meat hours or days before cooking, can make the meat tough once cooked. (Just think of a tomato salad: you sprinkle the cut tomato with salt, and suddenly the tomato's juices start to seep out.) The only exception to the no-salt rule in marinades is a salt brine, like the one that follows in the recipe below.

Brines are saltwater solutions in which meat soaks for hours or days; the purpose is as much preserving the meat as tenderizing it. But why should a saltwater solution tenderize rather than toughen meat, if salt draws moisture from meat? The key to understanding this paradox is osmosis, or the equilibration of water between the meat and its environment. If the environment of the meat is a marinade which contains dry salt (with or without oil, acid, and spices), through osmosis, the water from the meat will flow out of the meat, thus dissolving the salt in order to achieve equilibrium of water. If the environment of the meat is a brine which contains salt, but at a lesser concentration of it than the salts present in the meat cells, the water from the brine (not the salt) will flow into the meat in an attempt to achieve equilibrium of water.

For the brine:

• 1/4 cup coarse Kosher salt
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 2 dried chili peppers, crumbled, or 1/2 teaspoon chili flakes
• 2 thyme sprigs
• 2 bay leaves
• 4 garlic cloves
• 4 peppercorns
• 1 teaspoon fennel seeds
• 2 quarts water
• 4 pork tenderloins, trimmed of sinew (about 4 pounds)

To roast:

• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 teaspoon fennel seeds
• ¼ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
• 1 dried chili pepper, crumbled, or 1/4 teaspoon chili flakes
• 4 rosemary sprigs
• 12 thyme sprigs
• 12 sage leaves

For the tomatoes:

• 2 pints grape tomatoes, halved
• 12 basil leaves, chopped
• grated zest of 1 lemon
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• ¼ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Make the brine: Combine all the ingredients except the pork tenderloins in a pot and cook over medium heat until the salt and sugar dissolve, about 5 minutes. Cool to room temperature.

Place the pork in a deep container. Pour the cooled brine over the pork and cover; the pork should be completely covered in the brine. Add more water (and additional salt and sugar following the same proportions outlined in the recipe) if it is not covered in brine. Refrigerate 24 hours.

Drain the pork, discarding the solids from the brine. Place the pork tenderloins in a roasting pan.

To roast the pork: Preheat the oven to 475 degrees (preferably set on convection roast).

Rub the pork with the olive oil, fennel seeds, pepper, and chili pepper. Scatter the rosemary, thyme, and sage over the pork and roast in the preheated oven for 15 minutes, or until the pork registers 170 degrees. Remove to a board, cover with foil, and let rest 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the tomatoes: Toss all the ingredienst in a bowl.

Cut the pork into medallions and serve with its natural cooking juices spooned over the top, and with the tomatoes. Serves 8

Costolette d'Agnello al Rosmarino

Roasted Baby Lamb Chops with Rosemary Rub

The same heady herb marinade can be paired with rib-eye steaks or chicken breasts.

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/4 cup minced rosemary
• 1 tablespoon cracked black pepper
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 16 baby rib lamb chops
• 1 teaspoon salt

Combine the olive oil, rosemary, pepper, and garlic in a shallow dish. Rub the oil mixture on both sides of the lamb chops, coating well. Refrigerate for up to 2 days (or marinate up to 2 hours at room temperature; the longer you marinate the meat, the stronger the herb flavor will be).

When you are ready to serve, preheat the oven to 500 degrees. Rub the lamb chops with the salt.

Arrange the lamb chops in a wide roasting pan in a single layer and roast in the preheated oven until they are medium-rare, about 6 minutes. Serve hot, with roasted potatoes. Serves 4

Step-By-Step Recipe

Arrosto di Manzo

Pot Roast with Carrots, Juniper, and Mace

I find beef chuck roast to be the ideal cut for pot-roasting; it results in tender, melt-in-the-mouth meat and succulent, rich juices. I like a lot of freshly ground black pepper in this dish, but you can use less if you are not as fond of pepper.

For this roast, you will need:

• 3 pounds beef chuck roast
• 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
• 4 carrots, coarsely chopped
• 2 large yellow onions, coarsely chopped
• 4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
• 4 thyme sprigs
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley
• 8 juniper berries
• 1 teaspoon mace blades
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 and ½ teaspoons salt
• 1 cup dry white or red wine
• 1 cup brown chicken stock or beef stock, plus extra as needed

Step 1

Marinate the beef: Place the beef in a deep, wide container.

Add the pepper and rub well to coat all over.

Add the carrots, onions, garlic, thyme, bay leaves, parsley, juniper berries, and mace, and refrigerate 48 hours, turning once in a while. Marinating the beef with the aromatic vegetables and herbs for a few days tenderizes the meat and flavors it deeply; if you are in a hurry, you can skip the lengthy marinating time... but if you can plan ahead, do marinate the meat, and you will be amply rewarded with superior flavor and texture to your pot roast.

Step 2

When you are ready to cook, remove the beef from the container; set aside the solid ingredients (the carrots, onions, garlic, and herbs) from the marinade for later.

Heat the olive oil in a deep, heavy pot over a medium-high flame. An enameled cast iron pot or Dutch oven are ideal; a light, flimsy pot will not work, and will result in dried-out, burned meat and thin juices.

Add the beef and cook until browned all over, turning as needed to cook evenly, about 20 minutes.

Add the reserved solids (the carrots, onions, garlic, and herbs) from the marinade and cook 10 minutes, or until the onions soften. Season the beef and vegetables with the salt.

Pour in the wine and cook 5 minutes, scraping to dislodge any browned bits from the pot.

Step 3

Pour in the brown chicken or beef stock, bring to a gentle boil, and lower the heat to low. (For a step-by-step recipe for brown chicken stock, click here.) Cover the pot tightly and simmer for 5 hours, or until the beef is fork-tender and the vegetables are soft.

Check on the beef once in a while to make sure there is always some liquid in the pot; if the liquid evaporates during cooking, add a bit more as needed. The roast should always be half-submerged in the cooking liquid.

Step 4

Uncover the pot and remove the roast to a carving board; slice the roast thickly and place on a platter. Arrange the vegetables around the roast.

Meanwhile, reduce the cooking liquid to one-third of its original volume over a high flame.

Spoon the reduced cooking liquid over the roast and vegetables, and serve hot. Polenta or mashed potatoes make a perfect side dish. Serves 8

Gallina alla Birra con Verdurine ed Erbe

Beer-Marinated Cornish Hen with Baby Vegetables and Aromatic Herbs

Marinating the hens in beer for 2 days tenderizes them and flavors them deeply.

• 2 Cornish game hens, split in half
• 2 lemons, halved
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 cup beer
• ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon fennel seeds, crushed coarsely
• 1 tablespoon minced thyme
• 1 tablespoon minced rosemary
• 1 tablespoon minced tarragon
• 1 tablespoon minced marjoram
• 1 pound baby vegetables (carrots, zucchini, pattypan squash), trimmed and halved
• 1 and ½ teaspoons salt

Rinse the hens under cool water. Rub with the cut lemons. Place the hens in a wide roasting pan and drop the squeezed lemon halves in the roasting pan. Drizzle the hens with the olive oil. Pour on the beer and season with the pepper, fennel seeds, thyme, rosemary, tarragon, and marjoram. Cover with aluminum foil and refrigerate 48 hours, turning every few hours.

Return the hens to room temperature before roasting. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.

Uncover the hens and surround with the baby vegetables. Season the hens and vegetables with the salt.

Roast in the preheated oven for 1 hour, or until the hens are done; the breast should be golden-brown and the thickest part near the thigh should register 180° when a meat thermometer is inserted. Be sure to baste the hens with the cooking juices every 10 minutes or so during cooking for best flavor and texture.

Serve hot. Serves 4

Coniglio alla Griglia

Grilled Rabbit with Savory Herb Rub

Allow the rabbit to marinate for at least 24 hours to tenderize and perfume it; and don't forget to pass lemons around the table for squeezing over the fragrant fire-kissed meat.

• 1 rabbit (about 3 pounds), cut into 8 pieces
• 1 tablespoon wild fennel
• 1 tablespoon minced rosemary
• 1 tablespoon minced thyme
• 1 tablespoon minced oregano
• 1/4 teaspoon chili flakes
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 large garlic clove, minced
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
• 1 teaspoon salt
• lemons for passing at the table

Toss the rabbit with the fennel, rosemary, thyme, oregano, chili, pepper, garlic, olive oil, and vinegar in a alarge container. Refrigerate 24 to 48 hours, tossing once in a while.

Heat a grill to a medium-high flame. Season the rabbit with the salt. Grill the rabbit until browned on the outside and cooked all the way through, about 35 to 40 minutes, turning often to ensure even cooking.

If the rabbit starts to burn on the outside before the center has a chance to cook through, move it farther away from the flame to a cooler part of the grill. Serve the rabbit hot, with the lemon wedges. Serves 4

Pollo Brasato ai Funghi Porcini

Chicken and Porcini Mushrooms

Be sure to save and strain the soaking liquid from plumping the dried porcini: it will add an incredibly earthy flavor to the sauce for the chicken.

• 4 chicken legs, halved and skinned
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 2 medium yellow onions, quartered
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 thyme sprigs
• 2 sage leaves
• 1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 cup chicken broth, plus extra if needed
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Place the chicken in a large container. Add the wine, onions, garlic, bay leaves, thyme, and sage. Set aside in the refrigerator for 24 to 72 hours, turning every 8 hours or so to coat well with the marinade.

When you are ready to cook, soak the dried porcini mushrooms in 2 cups of warm water for 30 minutes; drain, straining the water through a cheesecloth-lined sieve to eliminate grit, and reserve the soaking water. Rinse the mushrooms, then chop coarsely.

Heat the olive oil in a deep, heavy 3-quart pot over a medium-high flame. Drain the chicken from the marinade (reserve both the solids and the liquid) and blot it dry. Add the chicken to the hot olive oil and sear on all sides, turning to cook evenly. Add the soaked dried porcini mushrooms, onions, garlic, bay leaves, thyme, and sage from the marinade to the chicken; cook until the onions are wilted, about 10 minutes, stirring often.

Deglaze with the wine from the marinade; let it reduce to one-quarter of its original volume. Add the reserved strained porcini soaking water, broth, salt, and pepper, and cover; lower the heat to medium-low and simmer for 1 hour, stirring once in a while and adding more broth if the sauce dries out too much. Adjust the salt and serve hot, with polenta. Serves 4

Salsiccia all'Uva

Pan-Fried Sausages and Juicy Grapes

The marriage of grapes and sausages is classically Umbrian. As the grapes cook with the sausages, they absorb the flavor of the meat and let out their own sweet juices, resulting in a memorable combination. Recipe adapted from Rustico: Regional Italian Country Cooking.

• 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 4 Italian sausages with fennel seeds (6 ounces each)
• 3/4 pound seedless white grapes, stemmed
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Heat the olive oil in a 12-inch skillet. Add the sausages, pierce with a fork to prevent bursting and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, or until browned on the outside, turning often. Add 1/2 cup of water and cook until the water evaporates, about 5 minutes; the sausages should be done. If they are not, cook longer. Remove the sausages from the pan and keep warm.

Discard the fat from the skillet, add the grapes and raise the heat to medium-high. Season with the salt and pepper and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes, or until just starting to soften.

Return the sausages to the skillet. Cook 2 more minutes and serve hot. Serves 4

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