This pastoral region is home to Rome, the capital of Italy, and much of its countryside remains as it must have been in the days of the Empire: quiet, dotted with sheep, the domain of farmers and shepherds who make a living in its hills and valleys. In Latium, lamb and pork are standard fare, and sheep's milk cheese is produced abundantly in small dairies and large cooperatives. Simple pastas made of flour and water and a wealth of vegetables round out the Roman larder.

Spaghetti all'Amatriciana

Spaghetti in Spicy Amatriciana Sauce

Amatriciana is usually paired with bucatini (hollow spaghetti) in Rome, but it marries beautifully with spaghetti as well. Guanciale is made from the meat of the cheek and throat of a pig. The meat is salted, rubbed with pepper, and aged; less fatty than Pancetta, which is made from the belly of a pig, it is cooked in pasta sauces, with vegetables, and more. You will find Guanciale at specialty markets that import cured meats from Italy.

• ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
• ½ pound Guanciale or Pancetta, defatted and cut into ¼-inch cubes
• 1 medium yellow onion, minced
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1/8 teaspoon chili flakes
• 3 cups peeled, seeded, and diced plum tomatoes (or 16 canned San Marzano tomatoes, chopped)
• 2 tablespoons plus ½ teaspoon salt
• 1 pound spaghetti
• ¾ cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano, plus extra for passing at the table
• ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a heavy saucepan over a medium flame and add the Guanciale, onion, garlic, and chili. Cook until the Guanciale releases its fat, about 10 minutes, being careful not to brown it.

Add the tomatoes and ½ teaspoon of the salt, bring to a boil, and cook until the sauce reduces somewhat, about 20 minutes, stirring often.

Meanwhile, bring 5 quarts of water to a boil. Add the spaghetti and the remaining 2 tablespoons of salt and cook until al dente; drain, reserving 1 cup of the pasta cooking water.

Toss the spaghetti with the sauce, the reserved pasta cooking water, the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil, and ½ cup of the Pecorino, and sauté for 2 minutes.

Transfer to a heated serving dish. Sprinkle with the freshly ground black pepper and the remaining ½ cup of Pecorino. Serve hot, passing additional Pecorino at the table. Serves 4 to 6

Spiedini alla Romana

Mozzarella and Bread Skewers in Warm Anchovy Sauce

This seductive appetizer is a specialty of Rome. The recipe was requested by a newsletter reader from New York City.

• 3/4 pound fresh Mozzarella, cut into 1-inch cubes
• 1 small loaf country bread, cut into 1-inch cubes
• 1 stick (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter, melted
• 2 salted anchovies, boned, gutted, rinsed, and chopped (or 4 anchovy fillets packed in olive oil, drained and chopped)
• 2 tablespoons milk

Preheat the oven to 400°.

Thread the cubed Mozzarella and bread on each of 8 skewers, alternating them and starting and ending each skewer with bread. Place on a roasting rack set in a roasting pan and bake until the Mozzarella melts but still holds its shape, about 10 minutes, brushing both the bread and the Mozzarella with 2 tablespoons of the melted butter during baking.

Meanwhile, cook the anchovies in the remaining 6 tablespoons of melted butter until dissolved; do this over a very low heat or the anchovies will burn. Add the milk, whisk to comibine, and keep the sauce warm.

Arrange the skewers on a platter and pour the sauce over them. Serve immediately. Serves 8

Rigatoni al Ragu

Rigatoni in Hearty Two-Meat Ragu

Ground beef and veal mingle in this rustic ragù. Adding a touch of raw garlic and parsley at the end enlivens the dish and provides a fresh note.

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 medium yellow onion, minced
• 1 carrot, minced
• 1 celery stalk, minced
• 2 thyme sprigs, leaves only, minced
• ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• ½ pound ground veal
• ½ pound ground beef
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 1/16 teaspoon ground cloves
• 1 and 1/2 cups chicken or beef broth, plus extra if needed
• 2 tablespoons plus 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1 pound rigatoni
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 tablespoon minced Italian parsley

Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a 12-inch sauté pan over a medium flame. Add the onion, carrot, celery, thyme, and ¼ teaspoon of the pepper and cook 10 minutes, or until the vegetables are soft. Add the veal and beef and cook 20 minutes, stirring once in a while, or just until the meats brown and take on a deep aroma.

Add the tomato paste and the wine and cook 5 minutes, or until the wine evaporates, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to dislodge any clinging bits into the sauce. Add the cloves, broth, and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt. Cover and cook for 1 hour, or until the meats are very tender, stirring once in a while and adding a little broth if needed.

Keep the ragù warm.

To cook, bring 6 quarts of water to a boil. Add the rigatoni and the remaining 2 tablespoons of salt and cook until al dente, about 8 minutes. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water. Sauté the pasta for 1 minute with the ragù and enough of the reserved pasta cooking water to coat well. Stir in the garlic, parsley, and the remaining ¼ teaspoon of pepper and serve hot, drizzled with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Serves 4 to 6

Costolette d'Agnello all'Aglio e Rosmarino

Grilled Baby Lamb Chops with Garlic and Rosemary

In this recipe, fresh rosemary and garlic mingle with mustard to create an aromatic coating for moist, juicy baby lamb chops. Although cooks in Latium rarely use mustard, it adds a lively flavor to the marinade for the lamb and helps the rosemary and garlic to adhere to the meat.

• 16 rib lamb chops, Frenched
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1/2 teaspoon cracked black pepper
• 4 rosemary sprigs, leaves only, minced
• grated zest of 2 lemons
• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard (optional)
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 lemon, cut into wedges

Toss the lamb chops with the garlic, black pepper, rosemary, lemon zest, mustard (if using), and olive oil in a shallow container. Refrigerate for 2 to 24 hours.

Heat a grill pan over a high flame for 3 minutes. Add as many lamb chops as will fit in a single layer, season with some of the salt, and cook 3 minutes, or until browned on the bottom.

Turn and cook 2 more minutes, or until browned on the other side. The lamb should still be rosy inside. Remove to a warm serving platter and cover with aluminum foil (you can keep the lamb chops warm in a preheated 200°F oven if you prefer).

Cook the remaining lamb chops in the same manner, sprinkling with the remaining salt. Add to the lamb chops on the platter and serve hot, passing the lemon wedges at the table. Serves 4

Pollo Arrosto con Arancia ed Uvetta

Roasted Chicken with Oranges and Currants

This unusual chicken dish brings to mind the cooking of Classical Rome, where the sweet and the savory often mingled.

• 8 boneless, skinless chicken thighs, rinsed and blotted dry
• juice of 1 lemon
• juice of 1 orange
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon chili flakes
• 2 medium yellow onions, sliced into thin rings
• 1 cup currants
• 1 teaspoon salt

Place the chicken in a single layer in a large ovenproof dish. Mix all the remaining ingredients together except the salt, and pour over the chicken. Allow the chicken to marinate for 24 to 72 hours, covered, in the refrigerator, turning once in a while.

When you are ready to serve, preheat the oven to 450°.

Season the chicken with the salt. Cover the chicken with aluminum foil and bake in the preheated oven for 35 minutes, basting every 5 minutes with the cooking juices. Uncover and cook 35 more minutes, basting every 5 minutes. Serve hot, spooning the cooking juices over the chicken. Serves 4

Peperonata alla Romana

Slow-Cooked Peppers and Onions with Anchovies and Garlic

This is a delicious Roman adaptation of the classic Italian peperonata: chunks of sweet peppers cooked with onions, tomatoes, garlic, and a hint of anchovies until they are silky soft. It makes a one-dish meal with crusty bread and a hunk of sharp Pecorino Romano.

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 garlic cloves, chopped
• 2 anchovy fillets, drained and chopped
• 1/4 teaspoon chili flakes (optional)
• 1 red pepper, cut into 1-inch cubes
• 1 yellow pepper, cut into 1-inch cubes
• 1 orange pepper, cut into 1-inch cubes
• 1 purple onion, cut into 1-inch cubes
• 6 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded and cut into 1-inch cubes
• 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 16 basil leaves, torn

Heat the olive oil with the garlic, anchovies, and chili in a 3-quart sauté pan over a medium flame. Cook for 1 minute, or just until the garlic releases its aroma. Stir in the peppers and onion and cook for 15 minutes, stirring often.

Add the tomatoes and cover. Cook for 30 minutes over medium-low heat. Uncover the pan, add the vinegar, salt, and basil, and cook over medium-high heat 5 minutes. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature. Serves 6