Whether they are made of pork, as is most often the case, or of beef, veal, buck, goat, chamois, venison, sheep, wild boar, or horse, cured meats (salumi in Italian) were born of a need to conserve meat for months after the slaughter of the animal. Salting, smoking, and air-drying are the three processes by which fresh meat is transformed into a long-keeping staple.

While all meats are salted, some are smoked, and others are simply air-dried.Italians have been making an amazing array of cured meats for thousands of years using both noble and humble parts of the animals they raise. The ancient Romans prized the spicy pork sausages crafted in the southern region of Basilicata (called Lucania then, and giving rise to sausages named Lucaniche still eaten today). And, fond of intensely tasty foods, they smoked or salted whole pig thighs, yielding savory Prosciutti not unlike those still made in mountain villages across Italy.

Two thousand years later, pork remains Italy's favorite meat for curing. Pigs are especially prevalent in areas where there is a notable cheesemaking tradition: after all, wherever there is cheese, there is excess whey, which, combined with bran and corn, becomes perfect feed for pigs.

Italian salumi fall under two categories: those obtained from a whole cut of meat, such as a boneless thigh or shoulder (Prosciutto, Pancetta, Coppa, Culatello, and more); and those obtained from minced, ground, or chopped meat that is stuffed into casings, known as insaccati in Italian (salami, sausages, and more). Salumi can range in size from tiny to imposing; they can be delicate or fiercely hot; they can be spreadable or hard; they may be best eaten raw, with a slab of bread, or be meant for cooking. Some are so particular that they are only made in one town or village, virtually unknown elsewhere in the country; others have become famous not only within Italy, but across the ocean.

The best place to discover this incredible range of cured meats is the salumeria, Italy's take on the delicatessen. Salumerie across Italy stock the country's most renowned salumi (Prosciutto di Parma, Prosciutto Cotto, Mortadella, Pancetta, Soppressata, and more) and a good number of local specialties; if you head to a salumeria in Trieste (Friuli-Venezia Giulia), you will have a chance to savor different cured meats than if you head to a salumeria in Cagliari (Sardinia). Because many Italian salumi are still cured on an artisanal level, relying on the meat of free-ranging animals or animals raised on specific feed such as chestnuts or corn, they are very flavorful and unique in character.

Salumi form an integral part of the Italian regional kitchen. They show up as appetizers in homes and trattorie: served with bread, they make a perfect opener to an informal meal. And while most cured meats arrive at the table unadorned, some (like Bresaola, air-dried beef from Lombardy) are marinated with olive oil, pepper, and perhaps a drizzle of lemon juice. Numerous recipes also call for bits of ham, salami, or other cured meats for added flavor and depth; this is especially true for savory pies, pasta sauces, and long-simmered meat stews.

When cooking with cured meats, keep in mind their inherent saltiness, spiciness, and aromatic qualities. Salt, a conserving agent, is used abundantly to ensure that the meat will keep for several months. Similarly, spices play a key role in conserving meat: black pepper, chili flakes, and ground red pepper are predominant, used more or less generously in different places and for different meats; in general, southern Italian salumi are spicier than northern Italian salumi. Fragrant herbs like wild fennel and rosemary also lend flavor to many cured meats, providing an aromatic accent to dishes that incorporate them.

Italian salumi can be rather expensive, and you may be wondering whether the domestic versions, which are often cheaper, can be substituted. I heartily recommend using Italian cured meats whenever possible: imported and domestic cured meats cannot be compared, since the animals are raised in different environments on different feed and then cured in different climates. The breed of animal used (hairy black pigs, mountain-roaming wild boar, and so on), the diet of the animal (corn, hay, chestnuts, bran, and more), and the peculiarities of place (salty air from the sea, heavy rainfall, mountain breezes) create cured meats with vastly different characters. Just as Prosciutto di Parma (Emilia-Romagna) tastes different from Prosciutto di Carpegna (the Marches), a ham from Baltimore cannot taste like one from Rome (Latium).

The list below includes both widespread and little-known Italian cured meats. Many of the more obscure cured meats are available only within their zone of production; others have become staples across Italy and the world. Unfortunately, FDA regulations do not allow most of these cured meats to enter North America: only a handful of imported salumi are sold here (Prosciutto di Parma, Prosciutto di San Daniele, Prosciutto di Carpegna, Prosciutto Cotto, Mortadella, and Bresaola). The others are either produced domestically (and therefore taste quite different from the original) or can only be sampled on their native soil. I offer you the exhaustive list below so that, on future trips to Italy, you will know what to sample in each region in the salumerie, in the trattorie, and, should you be so lucky, in people's homes.

Useful link: To purchase a variety of salumi in the United States, visit Citterio.

Torta Salata con Pancetta

Savory Pancetta Pie

Pancetta, unsmoked Italian bacon, shines in this savory pie.

For the pie:

• 4 large eggs
• 2/3 cup milk
• 1/3 cup heavy cream
• 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano
• 1/8 teaspoon salt
• 1/8 teaspoon black pepper
• 1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• ¼ pound diced Pancetta
• 1 sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed (9 ounces)

To serve:

• 4 cups packed baby greens
• 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
• ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/8 teaspoon black pepper

For the pie: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Combine all the ingredients except the puff pastry in a bowl.

Roll out the puff pastry into a 10-inch square and line an 8-inch square baking dish with it. Prick with a fork and spoon in the Pancetta mixture.

Bake 45 minutes, or until the filling is set and the crust is golden and crisp.

To serve: Toss the greens with the balsamic vinegar, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Arrange on 4 plates. Top with a wedge of pie and serve. Serves 4 as a first course, 8 as an appetizer

Bruschetta al Prosciutto con Mozzarella

Bruschetta with Prosciutto and Mozzarella

These delectable little packages can be assembled up to 4 hours prior to serving and refrigerated until you are ready to pop them under the broiler.

For the bruschetta:

• 24 slices baguette
• 12 thin slices Prosciutto di Parma or San Daniele, halved
• 24 basil leaves
• 12 sundried tomatoes packed in olive oil, drained and halved
• 24 bocconcini
• ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

To serve:

• 3 cups packed baby greens
• Juice of ½ lemon
• ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Make the bruschetta: Preheat the broiler. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Place the baguette slices on the parchment paper-lined baking sheet.

Place the halved Prosciutto slices on a counter. Top each with 1 basil leaf, then a sliver of sundried tomato, and finally 1 of the bocconcini. Sprinkle with the pepper. Wrap to enclose in the Prosciutto and place 1 bundle on each baguette slice, seam side down.

Slip under the preheated broiler until the Prosciutto is crispy, the bocconcini are melted, and the bread is golden at the edges.

To serve: Toss all the ingredients in a bowl. Distribute the greens among 6 plates. Serve within minutes, while the bruschetta is hot and crispy. Serves 8

Torta Salata ai Quattro Formaggi con Prosciutto

Four-Cheese and Prosciutto Pie

The Prosciutto for this pie should be sliced thickly, then cubed; that way you will find tentalizing bits of Prosciutto throughout the filling. Thinly sliced Prosciutto tends to clump up and form a ball in the filling. Look for phyllo dough in the freezer section of well-stocked supermarkets, and defrost overnight in the refrigerator before assembling the pie. The pie can be prepared (but not baked) up to 12 hours ahead; pour on the custard mixture just before baking.

For the filling:

• 1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley
• 1/2 pound fresh Mozzarella, coarsely grated
• 1/4 pound Caciocavallo, coarsely grated
• 2 ounces young goat cheese, crumbled
• 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano
• 1 large egg
• 1/4 pound cubed Prosciutto di Parma

For the pie:

• ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 6 sheets phyllo dough, thawed
• 1 tablespoon sesame seeds
• 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the custard mixture:

• 1 large egg
• 1/3 cup milk
• 1 teaspoon unbleached all-purpose flour

Make the filling: Combine all the ingredients in a bowl.

Make the pie: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Lightly oil a round 9-inch glass baking dish.

Line the baking dish with 1 phyllo sheet and brush very lightly with the olive oil, keeping the other phyllo sheets covered with a dry towel while you work (otherwise the phyllo will dry out and crack, becoming very difficult to work with). Part of the dough will hang over the sides of the pan, which is fine, since you will use it later to encase the filling.

Top with another phyllo sheet, arranging it askew from the first sheet, so the overlapping part falls in another area (not directly on top of where there is already overhanging phyllo); the goal is to form a sort of flower petal shape with the overhanging dough.

Continue in this manner, brushing lightly with olive oil and stacking phyllo rectangles slightly askew, until you have used 5 phyllo sheets.

Spoon on the filling and spread well, covering the dough.

Take the remaining phyllo sheet and cut it in half. Place the two halves on top of the cheese filling, brushing between them with olive oil.

Take the overhanging phyllo dough and fold it in, covering the filling entirely. The dough will look crumpled and creased, and it will not lie flat. That is fine.

Brush the top with olive oil.

Sprinkle with the sesame seeds and the pepper.

Make the custard mixture: Whisk the ingredients together in a bowl. Pour the custard mixture over the pie. As the pie bakes, the custard will set and create a soft, golden crust.

Bake in the preheated oven 40 minutes, or until golden, set, and crisp. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature. Serves 4 as a first course, 8 as an appetizer

Radicchio alla Griglia con Vinaigrette Tiepida e Pancetta

Grilled Radicchio in Warm Pancetta Dressing

Radicchio's bitterness can be tamed by blanching, a process that also makes it silky tender.

• 2 heads radicchio di Treviso, halved lengthwise (6 ounces each)
• 1 tablespoon plus 1/2 teaspoon salt
• ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
• ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• ¼ pound Pancetta, diced
• 2 large or 3 medium shallots, thinly sliced
• ¼ cup red wine vinegar

Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil. Drop in the radicchio and 1 tablespoon of the salt and cook 2 minutes, or just until the radicchio wilts. Drain and rinse under cool water to stop the cooking. Very gently squeeze out excess water, trying to keep the radicchio halves intact.

Toss the radicchio with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, ¼ teaspoon of the salt, and 1/8 teaspoon of the pepper.

Heat a grill to a high flame.

Grill the radicchio until it is lightly softened and tinged with brown on both sides, turning once, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a platter.

Heat a 12-inch sauté pan over a medium flame. Add the Pancetta and shallots and cook until the Pancetta browns lightly and the shallots wilt, about 10 minutes. Raise the heat to high and stand back from the pan. Pour in the vinegar and cook until it reduces to a glaze, about 1 minute. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil, ¼ teaspoon of salt, and 1/8 teaspoon of pepper, and swirl gently to combine. Pour the warm vinaigrette over the radicchio and serve immediately. Serves 2 to 4

Involtini di Asparagi e Pancetta

Asparagus Spears Wrapped in Pancetta

White or green, it doesn’t really matter: whichever asparagus you prefer will be fine in this easy antipasto. Just be sure to select asparagus with tightly closed tips and firm, unblemished stems—the signs of freshness. Avoid very thick asparagus, which wouldn’t have the time to cook all the way through on the grill before the Pancetta burns. Remember to soak the toothpicks in water to cover for 30 minutes before using them to spear the asparagus bundles, or they will catch on fire on the grill.

• 20 medium asparagus spears, bottoms trimmed
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 20 thin slices Pancetta

Heat a grill (or a grill pan) to a medium-high flame. Place the asparagus spears on a cutting board with the tips lined up at the top. Cut the asparagus from the bottom so the spears are 4 inches long.

On a plate, combine the salt, pepper, and olive oil. Roll the asparagus in the olive oil mixture to coat evenly. Wrap 1 asparagus spear in 1 slice of Pancetta, holding the seam side of the Pancetta closed with one finger. Spear each with a toothpick to prevent unfurling.

Proceed in the same manner with the remaining asparagus and Pancetta.

Grill the asparagus until the fat on the Pancetta has melted and the Pancetta is cooked, about 5 minutes, turning often to cook evenly; the asparagus should still be crunchy and just tinged with brown. Serve hot, removing the toothpicks first. Makes 20

Mortadella alla Griglia con Mostarda di Frutta

Smoky Mortadella Wedges with Fruit Mustard

I remember family road trips across Italy when I was little, munching on panini stuffed with Mortadella in the back seat as the landscape whizzed by. Even now, whenever I eat Mortadella, I feel as though I'm headed somewhere special, on the road to discovery. Mortadella (a light pink, delicate, cooked sausage that gave rise to America's beloved bologna, for it hails from Bologna in Emilia-Romagna) is typically enjoyed thinly sliced in sandwiches or added to stuffings for pasta. But when thick wedges of it are slow-smoked on the grill, the result is magical. Since Mortadella is so wide, it is impossible to obtain thick slices that weigh any less than ½ pound or so. Yo serve these thick, meaty slices as an antipasto, I suggest you grill them whole, then cut them in eighths before serving. If you grill the Mortadella in wedges, it will dry out. I like to serve grilled Mortadella with a bracing accompaniment like Mostarda di Cremona, a spicy, mustard-laced fruit concoction that is usually paired with rich sausages or boiled meats and is a staple on northern Italian tables for New Year’s celebrations. You will find it in Italian markets and specialty shops.

• Two ½-inch-thick medallions Mortadella (about 1/2 pound to 3/4 pound each)
• 1 jar (1 and ½ cups) Mostarda di Cremona

Heat your grill to a medium flame.

Place the Mortadella medallions as far from the hottest part of the grill as possible; the aim is to slow-cook the Mortadella until it acquires a delicious, smoky scent. Cover the grill in order to smoke the Mortadella; if your grill doesn’t have a cover, drape a sturdy piece of aluminum foil over the Mortadella instead.

Cook 10 minutes, or until the Mortadella is lightly browned on the bottom. Uncover and turn. Cover again. Cook until the other side is also lightly browned and the Mortadella has acquired a smoky scent.

Remove to a cutting board and cut each medallion into eighths. Arrange the resulting wedges on a platter and serve hot, accompanied by the Mostarda di Cremona. Serves 4

Bresaola con Rucola e Parmigiano

Bresaola Topped with Arugula and Shaved Parmigiano

Bresaola is an air-dried, unsmoked beef specialty from the Valtellina area of Lombardy. It is typically served as an appetizer, drizzled with lemon juice, extra-virgin olive oil, and shavings of Parmigiano. Some julienned arugula will only add to the visual appeal, as well as the flavor, of the dish.

• 1/2 pound very thinly sliced Bresaola
• juice of 1 lemon
• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 bunch arugula, washed and dried, stems removed, cut into long, thin strips
• 2 ounces Parmigiano Reggiano, shaved into long, thin shards with a vegetable peeler

Arrange the Bresaola in a single layer on each of 4 plates.

Drizzle with the lemon juice and olive oil, sprinkle with the pepper, and top with the arugula. Garnish with the shaved Parmigiano. Serve immediately. Serves 4

Involtini di Prosciutto Cotto e Sedano di Verona Legati con Erba Cipollina

Mustard-Laced Celery Root and Ham Bundles Tied with Chives

Opt for an Italian Prosciutto Cotto (literally, "cooked ham"), rather than Prosciutto di Parma (an uncooked ham aged a minimum of 12 months), for this elegant appetizer. Serve with drinks at a holiday gathering or place on the buffet table and let guests help themselves.

• 1 medium celery root, peeled, trimmed, and julienned
• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 12 thin slices Prosciutto Cotto, halved width-wise
• 24 chives

Toss the celery root, mustard, olive oil, salt, and pepper in a bowl; adjust the seasoning if needed. This can be done up to 12 hours ahead (refrigerate until needed).

Spread the slices of Prosciutto Cotto out in a single layer on a counter. Divide the celery root mixture evenly over the slices of Prosciutto Cotto and shape into a log along the bottom of each slice.

Roll the Prosciutto Cotto into tight scrolls, enclosing the celery root filling; tie each bundle with a chive for a prettier presentation. Arrange the bundles seam side down on a serving platter and refrigerate up to 1 hour. Makes 24 pieces

Barchette di Peperoni con Pancetta e Pecorino

Roasted Pepper Boats with Pancetta and Pecorino

You can use peppers of a single color if you prefer, but the presentation will be prettier with a variety. Avoid green peppers, which are less subtle than red, yellow, or orange ones. If Pancetta (unsmoked bacon) is not available, use bacon instead.

• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for greasing the baking sheet
• 1 red pepper, halved, seeded, and cut into 8 long strips
• 1 yellow pepper, halved, seeded, and cut into 8 long strips
• 1 orange pepper, halved, seeded, and cut into 8 long strips
• 3/4 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano
• 12 thin slices Pancetta, halved
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 450°.

Lightly oil an 11-inch x 17-inch baking sheet. Arrange the pepper strips on it with the skin side facing down. Drizzle with the olive oil, sprinkle with the Pecorino, and top with the Pancetta. Season with the pepper.

Roast in the preheated oven for 20 minutes, or until the peppers soften and the Pancetta becomes lightly brown; do not allow the Pancetta to burn or the dish will taste acrid. Serve hot. Serves 4