Historically one of Italy's poorest regions, Basilicata is also one of its least populated: high, craggy mountains and intractable soil have made agriculture a difficult proposition, and many Lucani (as the people of Basilicata are called) emigrated for luckier lands in the 1900s. Today, the economic situation is much improved, but the cuisine of Basilicata remains a rural one, deeply anchored in peasant traditions. Matera, known as "The City of Stone," is one of only two cities in the region with over 50,000 inhabitants.

Orecchiette alla Potentina

Orecchiette with Meatballs and Mozzarella

This is a classic Sunday dinner dish in Potenza, Basilicata's capital.

• ½ pound ground beef
• ½ pound ground pork
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 large egg
• 1 cup fresh bread crumbs (preferably homemade and coarse)
• ¼ cup whole milk
• 2 tablespoons minced Italian parsley
• 2 tablespoons plus ½ teaspoon salt
• ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• ¼ teaspoon chili flakes
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 4 cups chopped canned Italian plum tomatoes (San Marzano are best)
• 1 pound orecchiette
• ½ pound fresh or smoked mozzarella, coarsely grated
• ¼ cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano

In a bowl, mix the ground beef and pork together with the garlic, egg, bread crumbs, milk, parsley, ¼ teaspoon of the salt, ¼ teaspoon of the pepper, and the chili flakes. Mash vigorously with your hands until smooth, about 3 minutes. Shape the mixture into small balls.

Heat the olive oil in a pan large enough to accommodate the pasta later; add the meatballs, and when they have browned evenly, after about 10 minutes, add the tomatoes. Season with ¼ teaspoon of the salt and the remaining ¼ teaspoon of pepper. Simmer for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Cook the orecchiette in 4 quarts of boiling water with the remaining 2 tablespoons of salt until al dente; drain, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water if needed to dilute the sauce, and fold into the pan with the meatballs. Cook for 2 minutes, or until the pasta has absorbed some of the sauce, adding some reserved cooking water if needed.

Transfer to a terra-cotta pot; top with the mozzarella and Pecorino. Bake in the preheated oven for 10 to 15 minutes, or until bubbling, and serve hot. Serves 6

Cavatelli con Cime di Rape e Pan Grattato

Cavatelli with Broccoli Raab and Toasted Bread Crumbs

We are lucky enough to enjoy this dish every year at Ristorante Casino del Diavolo in Matera, where chef-owner Franco Ritella organizes a hands-on cooking lesson for our cooking tour participants.

• ½ cup bread crumbs
• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 anchovy fillets packed in olive oil, drained and chopped
• 3 garlic cloves, chopped
• 1 dried red chili pepper, crumbled, or 1/2 teaspoon chili flakes
• 1 pound cavatelli
• 2 tablespoons salt
• 2 bunches broccoli raab, stems removed, washed thoroughly

Place the bread crumbs in a skillet over medium heat and cook 3 minutes, stirring, or until they are golden and aromatic; transfer to a plate.

In the same skillet, heat the olive oil with the anchovy fillets, garlic, and chili pepper until the anchovies break down and the garlic is aromatic, about 2 minutes; do not allow the garlic to burn or it will be bitter. Remove from the heat.

Meanwhile, bring 6 quarts of water to a boil. Add the cavatelli and salt, drop in the broccoli raab, and stir. Bring back to a boil and cook until the cavatelli are al dente, about 10 minutes; drain and reserve 1 cup of the pasta cooking water.

Toss the cavatelli and broccoli raab with the infused olive oil, dilute with some (or all) of the reserved cooking water as needed to achieve a coating consistency, and adjust the seasoning if needed. Transfer to a platter. Top with the toasted bread crumbs and serve hot. Serves 4 to 6

Acqua e Sale al Pomodoro con Cipolla Rossa

Soft Bruschetta with Tomato and Purple Onion

Please don’t attempt to make this delicious finger food unless your tomatoes are bursting with flavor. Called acqua e sale (“water and salt”) in Basilicata, this humble bruschetta is what many farmers ate in the fields--but it also makes an excellent finger food at parties with a glass of crisp white wine.

• 8 small day-old ¼-inch-thick slices country bread
• 16 ¼-inch-thick slices beefsteak tomatoes
• 1 small purple onion, sliced into paper-thin rings
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 16 basil leaves, torn
• ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Place the bread on a serving plate and sprinkle it with 1/4 cup of cold water. Set aside for 5 minutes, then drain off any water accumulated on the plate. Top each slice of bread with 2 slices of tomatoes and a few onion rings. Sprinkle with the salt and pepper, top with the basil and olive oil, and serve. Serves 8

Torta Salata di Verdure

Fennel-, Sausage-, and Arugula-Filled Torte

This hearty savory pie can be served as an appetizer or as a main course, and is best freshly baked, while still hot.

For the dough:

• 1¾ cups bread (high gluten) flour, plus extra for the counter
• ¾ teaspoon instant (or rapid-rise) yeast
• 1¼ teaspoons salt
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for greasing the bowl and pizza pan
• 1 large egg yolk

For the filling:

• 2 bunches arugula, stems removed, washed
• 1 fennel bulb, quartered, cored, and thinly sliced
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• ½ pound spicy Italian sausage, casings removed and crumbled
• 1 garlic clove, chopped
• ½ bunch basil, leaves only, chopped
• ½ teaspoon salt
• ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• ½ cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano

Make the dough: Place the flour, yeast, 1 teaspoon of the salt, and the sugar in a food processor. Pulse to combine. Add ½ cup of warm (110°) water with the motor running, then add 1 teaspoon of the olive oil and the egg yolk. Process 45 seconds, adding a little water if the dough is dry or a little flour if it is sticky. Shape into a ball, place in an oiled bowl, cover, and let rise at room temperature until doubled, about 1½ hours.

Meanwhile, make the filling: Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil. Drop in the arugula and cook 1 minute; remove with a slotted spoon to a bowl of ice water, then drain, squeeze dry, and chop. Add the fennel to the boiling water; cook 2 minutes, then drain, rinse under cool water, and drain again.

Heat the olive oil in a 12-inch skillet. Add the sausage; cook 5 minutes over medium heat, stirring often; the sausage should be cooked all the way through. Cook longer if it is not. Add the garlic and cook 1 more minute. Transfer to a bowl, cool to room temperature, and fold in the arugula, fennel, basil, salt, pepper, and Pecorino.

Grease a 12-inch pizza pan. Cut the risen dough into 2 pieces, one slightly larger than the other. Roll out the larger piece into a 14-inch circle on a lightly floured counter. Line the pan with it, letting the excess dough hang over the sides.

Spoon in the filling and spread it evenly over the dough. Roll out the smaller piece of dough into a 12inch circle and place it over the filling. Squeeze the edges of the dough together, seal with your fingers, and roll the rolling pin over the pan to cut off excess dough. Brush the top of the dough with the remaining teaspoon of olive oil and sprinkle with the remaining ¼ teaspoon of salt. Tear a hole in the middle of the dough (this allows steam to escape). Let rest 1 hour. (Excess dough can be refrigerated for up to 1 day, well wrapped.)

Thirty minutes before baking, preheat the oven with a baking stone in it to 450°. Place the pizza pan on the baking stone and bake for 30 minutes, or until the pie is golden brown and lightly crisp. Serve hot. Serves 8 as an appetizer or 4 as a main course

Minestra di Pasta e Ceci

Spicy Chickpea Soup with Pasta

This hearty soup is perfect on fall and winter evenings. You can cook the chickpea soup base up to 3 days ahead and refrigerate it, or freeze it up to 1 month. Return it to a boil and add the pasta minutes before you are ready to serve. Be sure to drizzle a bit of raw olive oil over the finished dish just before serving for maximum intensity.

• One 15.5-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra if needed
• 1 garlic clove, peeled
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1 tablespoon Italian parsley leaves
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 12 basil leaves, torn
• 2 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced
• 1/4 pound short pasta (ditalini, shells, or mezze pennette)
• 1/4 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano (optional)

Place all but 1/4 cup of the chickpeas in a food processor. Pulse to purée.

Add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, 4 cups of water, the garlic, cayenne, parsley, and salt, and process to a smooth paste. Transfer to a large pot and add the reserved whole chickpeas, basil, and tomatoes.

Set over medium heat and cook 30 minutes, stirring once in a while.

Add more water if the liquid reduces too much; the consistency should be loose and soupy. Bring the liquid to a boil over medium-high heat and add the pasta.

Cook until the pasta is al dente, stirring often, about 8 minutes. Serve hot, drizzled with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil and sprinkled with the Pecorino. Serves 4